Rally in Sicily - May 2-9, 2009
“Peter… Do you know what my greatest worry is, perhaps my greatest disappointment? That when we get older, when we're 80 or older, we won't be able to drive our MGs anymore…”
Perhaps some of you, passionate as I am and so many others, will smile at these words. We're on the return ship, having boarded in Palermo with the group headed to Genoa, so many foreigners and Italians from Northern Italy are here, while a good portion of the participants have decided to follow Piero to Umbria and extend the gathering and vacation.
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The person speaking to me is certainly younger than me, he must be around fifty, with a beard and grey hair, his name is Werner Hofstetter, a splendid white TC with black interior, restored for the first time, he tells me, in 1970 and then by him in 1988. Like that of his friend Ruedi Wild, who has a black one with red interior that seems to have just come out of the factory, and seeing the passion and love they put into it, and how they drive them, agile in the thousand curves we face every day and at ease in unknown regions, on steep cliffs and coastal roads as if they were cars with modern-day technology and with an enviable mastery in supporting and driving them...
And the same goes for others, for example Albert Hagdorn, who catches my attention because he is at the wheel of a left-hand drive RV 8, one of the 8-10s converted to left-hand drive out of a couple of thousand built between 1992 and 1995, the test bed with which Rover tested the market for the production of the future MGF.
And then Dieter, the German with the two-tone green and ivory Cycle Wings TC, whom I met seven years ago right here in Sicily; Patrick Hagenaers, at the wheel of a six-cylinder four-seater NB, perhaps the oldest car at the meeting; Arnoux Jacobs, the Belgian driving a tiny green J2; Philip Quy, who is immediately recognizable when he arrives by the crackling sound of his blue and light blue PA, and Hermann Poppensieker, the lucky owner of the TA Tickford Old English White with green interior and three-position drophead top (in my opinion the most beautiful car at the meeting), a car produced in just 252 examples between 1936 and 1939 by Salmons and Sons, who revisited the original TA and TB built by Morris Garage in those pre-war years. Just over a hundred survive.
I don't want to dwell on these gems rather than the rally, but, like a smaller "Mille Miglia," we too, with 62 cars, were a small, walking museum—strictly MGs—of the automobile for over a week, a long procession that sparked interest and enthusiasm among the warm and friendly people of Sicily. So, on Friday, all participants met in Civitavecchia, to avoid any mix-ups and delays that might arise from the arrival of multiple ships in Palermo. So, everyone was together right from the start, catching up with old friends and having plenty of time to make new ones. This is another important reason, after the passion and the tourist aspect, that since I've been in this crazy world of classic cars and MGs for about twenty years, I can say that the majority of my friends today belong to this universe, and that most of the acquaintances I've made have turned into true friendships that have strengthened over the years.
The crossing is uneventful, and the next day, everyone refreshed and rested, we set off for our first stop, Cefalù. A beautiful cathedral, a town with quaint streets and squares that are flooded by our noisy caravan. An outdoor restaurant with a view, our first memorable gastronomic stop, and then we're back in the saddle to climb the promontory that leads us to Tindari, a city founded by Dionysius, the tyrant of Syracuse. There, we visit the sanctuary dedicated to the Black Madonna, which houses a carved wooden statue of Mary and Child, believed to bring grace and miracles.
We get off at the Hilton in Portorosa, and the large space in front of the hotel can barely hold all our beloved old ladies… After dinner, we prepare for the day at sea that awaits us on Sunday, a tour of the Aeolian Islands—with a boat at our exclusive disposal—that will take us to four of the seven islands.
First up is Vulcano, named after the Roman god who gave it its name. Frankly, this is my least favorite island: does anyone bathe in that sort of healing hot water (mud), which in turn makes me feel… shy? Then we head to Lipari, and here we take a bus tour of the island before lunch above the town, in a spot overlooking the entire island. Third comes Panarea, tiny, my favorite and also the most famous, frequented by celebrities. Intertwined lanes, tiny shops, rooms for rent, and tiny hotels—it's a shame about the weather, we don't stay long, but it's definitely a place we'll return to. In Stromboli, we can relax, recalling Roberto Rossellini's famous film "Stromboli, Land of God," and visiting the village while waiting for dinner on the boat, hoping to glimpse the lava flow... But the fog and low clouds will prevent us from seeing anything. I think back and think of the second episode of another, much more recent film, 'Dear Diary' by Nanni Moretti, set entirely in the Aeolian Islands, Lipari, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli and Alicudi...
Unfortunately, on the way back, the god of the waters is not favorable and we encounter very bad weather, rough seas and a lot of dancing, it seems that Neptune really has it in for us!
It's Monday, and the Nebrodi Mountains and the charming town of Montalbano Elicona await us, with a visit to the Castle of Frederick II of Aragon, considered one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. We'll then stop in Randazzo, a medieval town at the foot of Mount Etna, boasting monuments of historical and artistic interest such as the Church of San Nicola, the Royal Palace (Casa Scala), and the Vagliasindi Archaeological Museum. We'll transfer to Francavilla di Sicilia for lunch, and then in the afternoon, everyone will head to Giardini Naxos—where we'll be spending two nights—for a bit of relaxation.
On Tuesday, culture and cinema take center stage again with a visit to the center of Savoca, after having climbed up from the coast along mountain roads where our MGs really shine. We visit the renowned Museum of Peasant Art and the church of San Nicolò, in front of which some scenes from "The Godfather" were filmed, including the sequel to Michael's wedding. Also famous is the bar where Al Pacino meets the father of the bride, played by Kay Adams, which features many photos of the event; Francis Ford Coppola filmed nearly all of the parts of the film in Sicily in Savoca and Forza d'Agrò—which will soon host us for a sumptuous seafood lunch.
The highlight of the day, however, is the afternoon, with a visit to Taormina, a city of art—the Roman Theater, the Cathedral, Palazzo Corvaja—and entertainment, thanks to the constant presence of famous actors, directors, and even political figures, but above all because it is home to the David di Donatello film award. Our long-awaited dinner at Villa Nelson, built by the English admiral himself, is snatched away from us by its sudden sale a few weeks before our arrival. What a shame, however, the restaurant hosting us is right next to the entrance to the historic center…
Wednesday morning is dedicated to visiting Mount Etna. We struggle a bit to avoid the traffic until we reach Santa Venerina and Zafferana, but the roads that take us up to 2,000 meters are truly winding and a pure pleasure to drive. We'll bundle up due to the low temperatures, and have lunch at Rifugio Sapienza, in a truly evocative setting: low clouds, mist, and lava and eruption remains everywhere. In the afternoon, we'll descend to Santa Tecla, where we'll have dinner and an overnight stay, passing through Nicolosi and Trecastagni. But there's time for a bus tour of Catania, and let's go for the cannoli... Some people have almost had an indigestion this week! Art, culture, and cinema are also found here: the Teatro Massimo Vincenzo Bellini, the Cathedral of Sant'Agata, countless monuments, Via Etnea, and... fifteen or so films shot with the city as the backdrop, such as the celebrated "Divorce Italian Style" by Pietro Germi, starring Marcello Mastroianni and Stefania Sandrelli.
The last two days we're stationed in Caltagirone, the city of ceramics, where many do some last-minute shopping, and there's a skill competition. There's a stairway to climb, daunting in its height, but upon reaching the top, the satisfaction of a splendid panoramic view. Dinner on Thursday takes place at the beautiful Tenuta del Nanfro, with typical Sicilian products, music, and folk dances characteristic of this region. On Friday, we head to Piazza Armerina, and the Villa Romana del Casale is truly one of the highlights of the gathering. Perhaps the home of Maximian and then Maxentius, it's rich in mosaics, paintings, and... history, of life lived, although it's not entirely certain it was an imperial residence. The visit is enhanced by our guide's highly literary explanations, rich in cultural, historical, and artistic references, which manage to make us fully enjoy the morning, piquing our interest by immersing us in a time when every corner, every space had a story to tell. For lunch, we continue to Nissoria, where we'll eat outdoors at the "Glorioso" restaurant, which is sponsoring our event. We then continue to Nicosia, where exquisite hospitality, warmth, and local folklore await us.
There are a few setbacks today, and a few delays: some run out of gas, some have electrical problems, some have engine problems... The gala dinner is delayed, and there's also a bit of fatigue to contend with, but it's clear that unexpected events can happen in such a long and complex gathering; they're natural... And mostly due to the age of our cars and the large number of participants. But Franco Vigna, the mechanic accompanying us—at the wheel of a pre-war four-seater VA Tourer he restored himself—tells me there haven't been any real major problems, even though I've seen him work a lot, and we all owe him a shout out for his expertise and genuine availability.
On Saturday, the last day, we head for the Madonie Mountains, stopping for lunch in Castellana Sicula, where Chuck Patterson, a Californian from San Francisco, sends me some photos on a USB stick for magazine articles. Yes, you might think it's incredible, but there was also an American at our gathering, in a white B roadster driven by Frenchwoman Jaky Zanzi. In Palermo, a visit to an ancient palazzo near the port awaits us, followed by a final dinner featuring typical products, so delicious that some people take some back to the ship.
The farewell is almost touching. Everyone embarking for Naples departs, and we, whose ship arrives later, act as a crowd to wave goodbye. It's truly thrilling, with each car leaving with its crew, the applause, the nostalgia, and the thought that, sadly, it's all over... No, it's just a goodbye, because I think everyone will be there—and more!—in Gabicce in mid-May next year. It will be the MG European Event of the Year, and Fabio may have to close the registrations for a certain number of cars; I remember one year, as many as 170!!!
I'm not sure what Piero wants to do for the next meeting, perhaps the Peloponnese, but I've always insisted on Sardinia 2 with him, because that MG holiday in 2004 was unforgettable, and I really wish that that magic, those landscapes, that sea, as happened this year with Sicily, could recreate the atmosphere and pathos that I think we all fully enjoyed... Along with the friendship, the emotion, and the desire to be together with old and new travel companions, old and new friends who live with us, free, together, cultivating our same great passion.
Peter Noah